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Hidden young jr teen orgasms boobygod sex caught in. Young teen webcam solo girls masturbating webcam hidden cam teen. Is it really reasonable to expect to get the attic temp down to with an outside temp of 95 with natural ventilation?

Also, when I install my bath vent out through the soffits, will that interfere with the attic soffit vents? Should I vent thebath out the roof?

I have a roof with a ridge vent and gable vents, but no soffit vents. I can install some easily on one side, but the other side has the problems outlined above.

This side also has half the soffit length because of an addition with a torch-down roof. Maybe I can get some venting through the torch-down roof soffit by cutting a hole in the roof to allow the air to flow.

When installing soffit vents, do you install them with the vents facing the house or with the vents facing away from the house? I have a house where the second floor is a loft.

There are triangular crawlspaces to the sides of the room and a triangular attic space above the ceiling.

There is an access door to the northern crawlspace and no access to the attic space. The crawlspaces to the sides are not connected to the attic, but there are soffit vents and ridge vents.

Since the crawlspace is not connected to the attic there can be no airflow from the soffit vents to the ridge vents. The problem is that in the winter we often get strong, cold north winds.

This sends lots of cold air into the crawlspace via the soffit vents, and then directly into the house via the crawlspace access door and most of the electrical outlets on that side of the house.

Sometimes large areas of the loft will be 25 degrees colder than the first floor, and frequently the plumbing in the loft bathroom freezes the cold air seems to run under the tile floor burr!

Have to put hot water in the tub and wait for it all to thaw out. Should the crawlspace have gable vents? This would allow air to flow up the soffit vents and then out the ends through the gable vents.

Wondering if baffles are needed between all rafters or only those rafters over soffits. If you have continuous soffit vents, install baffles in enough or all the spaces to give you the needed square footage of vent area.

Space the soffit vents out so they divide the attic area into equal areas. In your case, I would put one in the center, then come in a couple of rafters on each end for the other two.

This home was built around near Schenectady, NY. Do I need to channel soffit venting to the ridge venting pre-existing before insulating or not even channel the venting?

Should I install vapor barrier before finishing attic ceilng? Is styrofoam insulation available in higher r-rating density than fiberglass?

Thanks for any advice on my first major upgrade! Dan, You calculate, for lack of a better word, gross area of needed vents.

My problem — I have ridge vents rated in Net Free Area per lineal foot; how do I equate that to a gross vent area as used in your example above, so I can see if my total ridge vent area is adequate?

Hi Sam, The ratio of vent area to square feet of attic space is more of a general rule of thumb than written in stone, as there are a number of other factors that are hard to quantify but are important such as your climate, how effective the draft or fan in your attic is in moving air through it, etc.

If you know the net free area of your vents, feel free to use it rather than gross vent area in making your calculations.

How do these impact the rule-of-thumb of 1 sq-ft vent area per sq-ft of attic floor? Following the formula, it seems like I need at least 6 more soffit vents.

Thank you! I have an attic area of sq. Based on the formula I need 7. My current ventilation is 2. Do I need to add soffitt vents? If so, how many sq,ft.?

I LIVE IN SOUTH TX;RGV. MY HOUSE WAS BUILT IN WITH FLAT A ROOF AND NO CRAWL SPACE. THE SOFFATS ALL AROUND MY HOUSE ARE 4 FT. DO I NEED TO HAVE VENT IN THE SOFFATS TO PREVENT MOLD AND MOISTURE.

The attic has two finished rooms on both sides of a center-hall staircase. The front of the house faces directly South and both rooms get extremely hot in the summer.

Since I am not sure if there are baffles located between the roof and the interior walls and dont know how far each joist is located from one another, how do I pick the proper location to install my soffit vents?

Hi Sandy, I would put the soffit vents on both sides of the house for even air flow. You should be able to determine the joist spacing and location by looking in the attic.

If not, try looking on the soffit for the location of nails to see where the joists are, or using a stud finder to locate them. You could also drill a small pilot hole, and insert a bent coat hanger through it to feel in each direction for the joists.

Hope this helps. Sandy, Baffles are usually installed before insulation is blown in to prevent it from clogging up the vents.

When figuring out soffit vent requirements for an attic—and calculating total vent area needed—does height of the attic come into play?

Hi Ben, I have an older ranch style home which I recently had re-roofed and a ridgevent installed. I would like to install soffit venting to take full advantage of the ridge vent.

My soffits are aluminum covered with the wood soffit under that. Must I be sure to get deep vents that push through both the aluminium and wood soffit and into the attic?

Or is it ok to just cut through both the aluminum and wood and only place a surface vent over the aluminum? Thank you for your help. Hi Derek, As long as you cut through both the aluminum and wood so that there is a clear path for air to flow through to the attic, a surface mounted vent attched to the aluminum should be fine.

I have square feet of attic space and have 50 soffit vents. One of my attics has both a turbine and power fan, and seems to have the minimum needed soffit vents.

The other attic has adequate soffit vents but only a turbine. My idea was to run a couple lenths of clothes dryer duct to the top of the attic area, thru a fan, then out thru the soffit in an area where there are no intake vents.

Does this sound workable? I had soffit vents installed several years ago. As I walked around my house inspecting things, I noticed that the openings in the soffit vents were pointed toward the house and the air it vented left a dirty area on the brick moulding below the eaves.

Why should soffit vent openings point toward the house? Is it because windblown rain could possibly get in the attic if vent openings are pointed away from the house.

It would seem that you would get better air flow if the vent openings were pointed away from the house. Your speculation about blowing rain being the cause is the only one I can think of, and, like you, I think the odds of that are pretty slim.

It was about 3 years ago. The roof is about 15 year old and will need to be replaced in the not too distant future.

However, in the interim, we would like to address the ventilation issue. When the previous owner had the roof replaced, a ridge vent was installed and soffit vents installed.

The problem is that the soffit vents do not have visible openings in the attic. The attic floor is covered with tongue and groove boards, part of the original construction.

Cellulose insulation was added some time in the past as well. What is your suggestion for connecting the soffit vents to the attic area?

I was thinking it might be possible that the air current might move up the house to the soffit then outwards?

Then again I have never seen an air current analysis on a roof. I need to install soffit vents in our home; several years ago we had 12 inches of insulation blown into the attic.

Will this complicate installation of the soffit vents? The attic is small and difficult to work in especially considering the blown in insulation, is it necessary to be in the attic in order to install the vents or could this all be done from outside?

Hi Andy, Installing soffit vents can and often has to be done from outside due to space limitations in the attic. I need air flow in my attic badly.

I took off two soffit vents only to find batt insulation from the vent back up to the inside of the attic.

I have about three feet of slopped ceilings in each room that mirror the roof slope and the insulation is between the roof and the room ceiling.

Can I pull out the insulation, put in baffles and then blow in insulation arouind the baffel? I am also putting Radiant barrier on the underside of the attic roof.

I installed a new roof last year with a ridge vent; took out the old powered roof vents ugly! There is perforated vinyl soffit material running the full length of 90ft under the soffit on the north side of my house.

There are no soffit vents on the south side of my house. Three questions; first, are the 2 inch holes enough ventilation or should I remove the perforated vinyl soffit material and cut larger holes?

Second, should I remove the perforated product completely because it it prevents the passage of air and is not efficient enough?

Third, must there be a equal amount of soffit venting on both sides of the house? Thank you for any help! I want to know if 1 gable vent on the back wall as high up as I can install it would be enough for this sq.

When I did research on this I focused on net free area. I wonder why this article fails to mention net free. This can make a big if you put in 10 vents but really need 30 vents.

I am not a professional but would it makes more sense to me…. Kevin Says: January 24th, at pm Is there an answer to B. I have a sqft ranch, when the roof was redone aprox.

Is it possible that too much ventilation could be causing incresed energy use, and causing erradic temperture fluctations.

Oh I might add that on windy days it is impossible to keep any heat. The house always feels cold even when it is warm outside.

Also in response to an earilier post about vents above windows and doors, I was told that this should not be done, because in the unlikely event that a fire should occur the air currents would draw the flames into the attic causing more damage.

Hi Randy, Good point about fire and attic vents, thanks. Plus, you do live in Michigan where it gets pretty darn cold in the winter!

Thanks for your reply Ben. I should have stated that the attic has an origianal r13 layer then I added a r30 layer a few years ago. We do have a whole house attic fan that gets covered in the winter time.

It seems the more I try to be efficient the higher the bills go. The problem with blocking the vents in your attic during the winter is that it might cause moisture to build up in the attic which could lead to mold and rot.

Randy, I want to install attic baffles before blowing in insulation. The area I need to install baffles the roof trusses and joists are at almost a 30 angle from each other below this area is cathedral ceiling.

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